Put your hand into the side of your favourite kurta. If there is a pocket there, you probably don't even think about it. It holds your phone, your keys, maybe a folded note. But this small pouch of fabric has a long, surprising story, and that story is quite different for men and for women.
In this beginner-friendly guide, we will walk through how pockets developed, why women's clothing so often had fewer of them, and how you can add a neat pocket to your own garments. No sewing background is needed. We will explain every term as we go.
Before Pockets: Pouches, Belts and Knots
For most of human history, clothes did not have pockets sewn into them. People still needed to carry things, so they used small bags and pouches. These were often tied to a belt or a cord at the waist.
One famous example is Ötzi, the ancient man found frozen in the Alps. He lived thousands of years ago, and he carried a small pouch attached to his belt. So the idea of carrying things close to the body is very old, even if the sewn-in pocket is newer.
In India, many traditional garments like the saree, dhoti and veshti were simply draped, not stitched. People found clever ways around this. Coins or money were often tucked into the waist fold, or tied into a small knot at the corner of the saree pallu (the loose, decorative end that falls over the shoulder). Many grandmothers still do this today.
How Men's Clothing Got Its Pockets
In Europe, pockets slowly moved from outside the clothes to inside them. Over time, tailors began sewing pouches into the lining of men's coats and breeches (knee-length trousers). A slit in the garment let the wearer reach inside.
As men's tailoring developed, pockets became a normal, expected part of a suit. Jackets gained pockets on the chest and hips. Trousers gained side pockets and back pockets. Later, jeans made pockets famous in a new way. In 1873, Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis received a patent for using small metal rivets (tiny metal studs) to strengthen the corners of work-trouser pockets, so they would not tear under heavy loads.
The result was simple: men could carry their daily needs without holding a bag.
The Women's Pocket Story: Tied On, Then Taken Away
Women's pockets followed a very different path. In Europe during the 1600s and 1700s, many women wore tie-on pockets. These were separate fabric pouches, tied around the waist on a string and worn under the skirt. A slit in the side of the skirt allowed a woman to reach in. These pockets could be quite large and held sewing kits, food, letters and money.
Then fashion changed. Around the end of the 1700s, slim, straight dress shapes became popular. There was no room to hide a bulky pouch underneath. Women began carrying small drawstring handbags called reticules instead.
From then on, women's pockets came and went with fashion. Some dresses had them; many did not. Over the years, women who campaigned for more practical clothing often asked for proper pockets, because a pocket meant freedom to move through the world with your hands free.
Why Pockets Still Feel Like a Big Deal
Even today, many women notice that their clothes have tiny pockets, fake pockets, or none at all. Fake pockets are flaps that look like pockets but are sewn shut. Shallow pockets can barely hold a phone.
There are some practical reasons. Pockets can add bulk on fitted garments. They need extra fabric and extra stitching time, which raises cost. But the good news for anyone learning to sew is this: when you make your own clothes, you decide. You can add a deep, useful pocket to any kurta, skirt or dress you stitch. That is one small but real kind of independence.
Common Types of Pockets (Explained Simply)
Before you add a pocket, it helps to know the main types. Here are the ones beginners meet most often:
Patch pocket: a piece of fabric sewn flat on the outside of a garment, like on a shirt chest or an apron. It is the easiest pocket to learn.
In-seam pocket (side-seam pocket): a pouch hidden inside the side seam, which is the line of stitching that joins the front and back of a garment. You only see a small opening. Very common on kurtas and dresses.
Slant pocket: the angled front pocket found on many trousers and jeans.
Welt pocket: a neat slit pocket with a narrow strip of fabric, called a welt, along its edge. You see these on suit jackets and trousers. It needs more practice.
Kangaroo pocket: one large pocket across the front, often on hoodies and kids' wear.
How to Add an In-Seam Pocket to a Kurta: Step by Step
An in-seam pocket is a lovely first project because it stays hidden and looks clean. Here is a simple method. Seam allowance means the extra fabric between the stitching line and the cut edge; here we assume a 1 cm seam allowance.
Make a pocket pattern. On paper, draw a rounded pouch shape a little bigger than your hand, with one straight edge. The straight edge will sit along the side seam. Add seam allowance all around.
Cut four pocket pieces. You need two for each side: one to attach to the front panel and one to the back panel. Lining fabric or thin cotton works well and reduces bulk.
Mark the pocket position. Try the kurta on or check your measurements. Mark on the side seam where your hand naturally falls, usually a little below the waist. Use small notches (tiny snips or chalk marks that help you line up pieces).
Attach the pocket pieces. Place one pocket piece on the front panel, right sides together (the printed or "good" sides facing each other), matching the straight edge to the side seam at your marks. Stitch. Do the same on the back panel.
Press outward. Open the pocket pieces away from the garment and press with an iron. Pressing makes every seam look sharper.
Stitch the side seam. Place the front and back panels right sides together. Sew down the side seam, stop at the top of the pocket opening, pivot, and stitch around the pocket curve. Pivot again at the bottom of the opening and continue down the side seam.
Finish the edges. Neaten the raw edges of the pocket with a zigzag stitch or overlock so they do not fray. Press the pocket toward the front of the garment.
Test it. Turn the kurta right side out and slip your hand in. Your pocket should open smoothly and lie flat.
Beginner Tips for Better Pockets
Make the pocket deep enough for a modern phone. Measure your own phone before drafting.
Use a lighter fabric for the pocket bag in heavy or stiff garments, so the side seam does not bulge.
Stitch a few short reinforcing stitches (called a bar tack) at the top and bottom of the opening, where the pocket takes the most strain.
Always test on scrap fabric first. There is no shame in a practice piece.
Pockets, Pattern Drafting and Your Growth
Adding a pocket is really a small lesson in pattern drafting, which means creating the paper templates used to cut fabric. Once you understand how a pocket joins a seam, you start to see how every garment is built from shapes that fit together. That is the heart of fashion education.
If you would like to learn this properly, our A-Line Kurta course is a gentle place to begin, and it is a perfect garment for trying your first side-seam pocket. For a deeper understanding of how all patterns work, explore the Master Pattern Drafting course. Classes are taught in Kannada, both online and at our Vidyaranyapura centre in Bangalore, so you can learn in the language and format that suits your life.
You can browse every option on our All Courses page.
Start Stitching Clothes That Work for You
The history of pockets reminds us that clothing is never just about looks. It shapes how freely we move, work and live. When you learn to sew, you take back some of that choice for yourself, one useful pocket at a time.
Ready to begin? Message us on WhatsApp at +91 9972834657 to ask about current batches, or enroll in a course today. Your first well-made pocket is closer than you think.